Faucet & Fixture Installation
Low-flow compliant fixtures fitted to decades-old valve bodies.
FIXTURES · NORWALK, CA
Toilet repair and installation, done in one visit
A running toilet wastes more water than most household leaks combined, and a rocking one is usually a failed seal quietly working on your subfloor. Both are same-day jobs at a modest price.
Line answered 24/7 · most repairs completed in a single visit
Small job, real consequences
The cheapest leak to fix and the easiest to ignore
A flapper that does not seat can pass hundreds of gallons a day, and it shows up as a bill rather than a puddle. A fill valve that will not shut off does the same thing more audibly.
The failures that matter structurally are at the base. A wax ring that has broken down lets water escape at floor level on every flush (into the subfloor, or into the ceiling below on a two-story house) and the only symptom for months is a toilet that moves slightly when you sit on it.
What we get called for
Almost all of it is a single visit with parts on the truck.
- Water running continuously, or refilling by itself every few minutes
- Toilet rocking, or a floor that feels soft around the base
- Water seeping at the base after a flush, or a persistent smell
- Weak or incomplete flush, or a bowl that empties slowly
- Repeat blockages in the same toilet
- Cracked tank or bowl, or a replacement on an old rough-in
Running toilet? It is on your water bill right now.Call (562) 358-3351
Why it happens here
What we find in this housing stock
Original bathrooms in these tracts often have a 10-inch or 14-inch rough-in rather than the modern 12-inch standard, which is why a homeowner-bought toilet sometimes will not fit against the wall. It is solvable, but it needs knowing before purchase.
The other recurring find is a closet flange sitting below finished floor level after a tile or flooring job. Stack enough wax rings to bridge that gap and the seal fails within a couple of years, the correct fix is a flange extension, not more wax.
Before you buy a toilet
Measure from the wall behind the tank to the centre of the closet bolts. Ten, twelve or fourteen inches; that number determines what will actually fit, and it is the most common reason a new toilet goes back to the store.
How the work goes
How the visit goes
Diagnose in the tank first
Fill valve, flapper, flush valve seat, chain and float all get checked before anything is pulled, most running toilets end here.
Check the base and flange
Rock, seal condition, flange height and bolt condition, plus a look at the floor around it for soft spots.
Clear a blockage properly
Closet auger through the trap rather than a plunger and hope, and a look further down the branch if the same toilet keeps blocking.
Repair or replace, priced first
You get the cost of the repair and the cost of a replacement before either happens, including whether the old rough-in limits your options.
Set it properly
New wax or foam seal, flange repaired or extended if needed, closet bolts snug not overtightened, and shimmed level to stop rock.
Test and clean
Multiple flushes checked for seal and fill, water shutoff and supply line replaced if tired, and the old unit hauled away.
Toilet running all night?
It is quietly the largest water leak in most houses. A same-day visit usually fixes it in under an hour.
24/7 DISPATCHCall (562) 358-3351
Options and trade-offs
Repair, or replace the fixture
Repair is right for almost anything mechanical: fill valves, flappers, flush valves, supply lines, angle stops, wax rings and flange work. Parts are inexpensive and a good repair lasts years.
Replacement makes sense when the china is cracked, when the toilet is an early low-flow model that never flushed properly, or when repeated repairs have added up. Modern 1.28 gallon fixtures flush better than the first generation of low-flow units did, which is often a pleasant surprise.
If you are replacing for water use alone, check whether your existing unit is already 1.6 gallons. Going from 1.6 to 1.28 is a real but modest saving; going from a pre-1994 3.5 gallon unit is dramatic.
What raises the price
- Flange repair or extension, especially on cast iron
- Damaged subfloor found once the toilet is lifted
- Non-standard rough-in requiring a specific fixture
- Wall-hung or pressure-assist units
- After-hours call-outs
- Removing a very old unit set in mortar
What keeps it down
- Calling at the first sign of running or rocking
- Standard 12-inch rough-in and a common fixture
- Bundling several bathroom items into one visit
- Normal-hours appointments
- Replacing the angle stop and supply line at the same time
While you wait
Right now, before we arrive
Two minutes of action stops the water loss and limits the damage.
- Shut the angle stop behind the toilet, turn clockwise, gently
- If the stop is seized, shut the main rather than forcing it
- For an overflowing bowl, stop flushing and lift the flapper closed by hand
- Do not use chemical drain opener in a blocked toilet
- Keep towels and weight off a floor that feels soft
What you get on the phone
Most toilet symptoms are diagnosable by description, so the right parts arrive on the first visit.
- A time window, not a vague day
- A price before work starts
- Rough-in checked before a fixture is ordered
- Old unit removed and taken away
One conversation and a local pro is on the way.Call (562) 358-3351
Related work
Related fixture work
Commonly folded into the same visit.
Shower & Bathtub Plumbing
Valve replacement, diverters, slow tub drains and pan-level leaks.
Drain Cleaning
Kitchen, laundry, tub and main-line stoppages cleared and diagnosed.
Questions we get on this job
Questions we get on toilet jobs
A flapper that is not sealing. Water seeps into the bowl, the level drops, the fill valve tops it up. It is inexpensive to fix and it can be quietly costing you a noticeable amount every month.
Worth attending to promptly. Movement breaks the seal at the base, and the leak that follows goes into the subfloor where you cannot see it. Shimming alone treats the symptom; the seal and flange need checking at the same time.
Yes, and it usually goes smoothly. The one thing to check first is the rough-in measurement (wall to bolt centres) because a mismatch there is the main reason a purchased fixture does not fit.
Typically one to two hours including removing and hauling the old unit. Add time for flange repair, an extension where flooring has raised the floor level, or any subfloor damage found underneath.
Either the fixture flushes weakly (common on early low-flow designs) or there is a restriction in the branch drain beyond it. If it is the second, a camera or a drain clearing visit is the actual fix, not another auger.
In a house with weak drain fall or a history of blockages, sometimes yes. They flush hard and clear long runs well. They are noisier and the parts cost more, so it is a trade rather than an upgrade.
Have several small fixture jobs? Bundle them into one visit.Call (562) 358-3351
Also dispatched
Other work we take on
One number covers all of it. If you are not sure which of these your problem is, describe it and we will tell you.
Stop the running, fix the rocking
Same-day appointments, parts on the truck, and a price before the work starts.
SAME-DAY AVAILABLECall (562) 358-3351